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CONTENTS 1 . tents 1 ription of machine 2 — 3 ling the bobbin 4 ading the bobbin case 5 rting and removing the bobbin case 6 ading the machine 7 ing the needle 7 aring to sew 8 ting to sew 8 ulating the thread tension 9 ulating the stitch length 10 ulating the drop feed 10 ulating width of zigzag stitch 11 ulating length of zigzag stitch 11 of zigzag patterns 12 13 ning the shuttle race 14 to make buttonholes 15 — 16 ing embroidering and monogramming 17 lonsewing 18 ow hemming 19 sewing er 20 ing 20 Ii guide 21 Iting 21 e useful sewing hints 22 se of common difficulties 23 dIe and thread size 24
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2 . DESCRIpTION OF MACHINE 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 IJJ / / 4IN 1 I 8
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1 Balance Wheel 16 Thread Guide 2 . Stitch Length Control Knob 1 Tension 7 Backet 3 . Reverse Push Button 18 Top P { ate 4Drop Feed Knob Spool 19 Pin 5 . Dial Tension 20 . Zig - Zag Width Lever 6 . Needle Clamp 21 . Bobbin Winder 7 . Needle Plate 22 Bobbin Winder Stopper 8 . Slide Plate 9 . Presser Foot 1O.Presser Foot Clamp Screw 11 Needle Bar Thread Guide 12 . Lower Thread Guide 1 3 . Horizontal Thread Guide 14Face Plate 15Light Switch ( Rear side ) — 3 —
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3 . WINDING THE BOBBIN 1 . To wind the bobbin , the balance wheel must be disconnected from the stitching mechanism . balance Hold wheel the with your left hand and turn the stop motion knob ( Fig . towards 1 ) you with hand . your right This will permit the balance wheel to turn freely while the needle bar remains motionless . balance wheel The is now disconnected for the bobbin winding operation . 2 . Place a spool of thread on the spool pin . Draw thread from the spool through tension bracket front from ( Fig . back to 2 ) . 3 . Now wind the end of the thread around empty bobbin seven or eight times and place the threaded on the spindle bobbin of the bobbin winder . 4 . And push the bobbin winder from left to right . 5 . Now manipulate your foot control in the same manner as in sewing and when the bobbin full is it completely will release automatically and stop turning . Detach bobbin from spindle . Hold balance with wheel left hand firmly and with the right hand turn stop motion knob away from you until if cannot any further be moved and the needle bar moves with the turning of the balance wheel . Fig 1 Fig 2
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4 . THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE Fig 3 Before threading the bobbin case , study Fig . 3 , 4 and to general 5 get a idea to how as it is done . Hold 1 . the bobbin case with your left hand and put the bobbin into the bobbin case with your right hand , leaving about two inches of the thread end unwound ( Fig . As the bobbin being is inserted n the bohbn case , 3 ) . the thread flow , note , you will is clockwise . While 2 . holding bobbin the case as before , grasp the thread end with your right hand and guide into the cross slot ( Fig . 4 ) . it 3 . Then pull through under the tension spring it of the bobbin case until it enters the delivery eye ( Fig . 5 ) . slot — cross spring tension eye Fig 4 Fig 5
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5 . INSERTING AND REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE 1 , Raise the presser bar by lifting the presser bar lifter . 2 . Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the balance wheel 3 . towards Pull out you . slide plate ( Fig . 6 ) . 4 . After threading the bobbin case , hold its latch ( Fig . 7 between ) the thumb position and forefinger finger opposite of the the left notch hand , with at the its top of the shuttle race and replace ( Fig 7 ) . it on the centre stud of the shuttle 5 . Then release the latch and press the bobbin case back until the latch 6 . catches Allow the the end groove at the near thread the end to hang of the free . stud . 7 . Push back slide plate . To remove the bobbin case do all the above in reverse order . Fig 6 Fig — 7 6 —
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MACHINE THE THREADING . 6 - up take the raise and pin spool on thread of spool a Place . ( Fig ) . to 8 Refer point highest its to lever down guide ) 1 ( thread upper of slot through thread Pull and ) 3 ( spring check thread into ) up discust2 tension through right from lever ) 5 ( - up take the of eye the into on up and ) 4 ( . left to lower through down thread ) 6 ( middle through thread Return guide ) . thread 8 ( bar needle into and ) 7 ( guide inches four about pulling , right to left from needle Thread . needle through thread of NEEDLE THE SETTING . 7 Needle bar needle raising , you towards wheel balance the Turn . 1 Flat — . screw clamp needle the loosen and , position highest its to ace surf down point the with hand left the needle in the Hold . 2 for as clamp needle the into up needle the insert and Needle retight then right the to surface flat its with go will it as bar . ) . ( Fig 9 screw clamp the en thread guide 9 Fig 7 —
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8 . PREPARING TO SEW end the Hold upper - thread leaving the of with the left it hand , 1 the needle . slack from the hand to wheel raise the Turn towards needle bar the balance you to its 2 . to highest position . holding , Pull the lower you are thread will the and be brought thread 3 . in the the hole shown ( Fig . up with it through needle plate , as 10 ) . upper Place and lower the back both ends of thread under 4 . the and to the 1 of presser foot ( Fig . 1 ) . Fig 10 TO SEW STARTING 9 . beneath the presser sewn foot . Place the fabric to be 1 the presser lifter . lowering the presser foot by bar Lower 2 . turning the balance while slowly wheel towards Start you sewing by 3 . control . working the foot gradually BALANCE WHEEL YOU ! TURN TOWARDS ALWAYS 11 Fig — 8 —
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10 . REGULATING THE THREAD TENSION For ordinary stitching the tension of the upper and lower threads should be equal so as to lock Correct Stitch both threads in the centre of the material ( Fig . 13 If ) . one tension is stronger than the other , imperfect stitching will result . Fine materials Needle Thread require Tension a light tension , while too strong heavy matericls require more tension to obtain perfect a stitch . TO INCREASE the tension , turn the thread tension dial ( Fig . clockwise . 12 ) Needle Thread Tension too weak TO LESSEN the tension , turn the thread Fig 12 tension Fig 13 dial in the opposite direction . ( When regulat ing the tension always have the presser foot down > , tighten As all machines are correctly adjusted before leaving the factory and readjusted before the dealer delivers them to you , the lower tension seldom requires to be altered , but , if this becomes necessary , tighten the screw holding the tension spring on th outside of the bobbin loosen case for more tension , or loosen the screw slightly for lesser tension ( Fig . 14 ) . P Fig 14 9 —
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REGULATING 11 , THE STITCH LENGTH — 4 - - - length The the of stitch can changed be with the stitch length dial ( Fig . In 15 ) . order to machine set at certain length a of stitch , turn stitch the length until dial indicatoris facing the selected the number on the scale . The length of stitch the is variable normal stitch lenght from 0 The - 5 . is 2 . Regulate the length the a . of stitch for as forward sewing . Push reverse b . stitch button , located in the centre of the stitch length dial ( Fig . far 15 it ) as will The as machine go . will remain sewing in reverse while the reverse stitch button depressed . is When released the machine resumes forward sewing with the same stitch length . Fig 15 12 . REGULATING THE DROP FEED The DROP FEED is located on the of bed the machine ( Fig It regulates 16 the ) . height the of feed dog sewing for normal material , for darning and embroidering . For darning , 1 . embroiclering and monogramming , turn the knob at left “ DOWN � place and feed the mechanism will be lowered under the level of theneedle plate , so that the material can be moved freely . For normal 2 , sewing turn knob the to “ UP � right the place . Fig 16 — 10 —
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13 . REGULATING WIDTH OF ZIGZAG STITCH 01 2 345 \ / — - - II Fig 17 width The of zigzag stitch is regulated by the zigzag lever . By pushing zigzag the lever right , the to width of the stitch zigzag will increase accordingly . pushing zigzag left , And the lever the to width the of by zigzag stitch will decrease accordingly . If “ 0 � there position , will at be a straight stitch . 14 . REGULATING LENGTH OF ZIGZAG STITCH stitch The length dial regulates the of length zigzag the stitch for sewing zigzag in the same manner for straight as sewing . order In produce to the “ Satin Stitch � which the closest is sttch , zigzag the stitch set length dial close toO . — ii —
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15 . LIST OF ZIG ZAG PATTERNS Stitch Patterns How Length to move zig zag lever or needle position lever 1 — — — — 5 Lock zig zag lever at ( 0 ) . 2 / ‘ 5 V \ / v — Lock zig zag lever at lAi \ A ( 5 ) . 3 05 — 2 Lock zig zag lever atL4 \ ( ( 5 i ) . ( ) . 52 At even speed from - - - and toM to - - - Repeat this . 5 0.5 — 2 Rest at and oscil ! ateM - Wt - Wand rest . — 12 —
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OILING . 16 . times all at oiled it keep must you , condition running smooth in always is machine your that see To il are oiled be Points to . oiling of time each at sufficient oil is of drop a , required is lust grease No turn and plate open top , thoroughly machine your oil To . marks arrow by 19 18 . Fig & in ustrated . bed the underneath parts get to over to machine the . parts all to penetrate oil the let to minutes few for speed high a machine at the run , oiling After 19 Fig 18 Fig 3 I —
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RACE 17 . SHUTTLE THE CLEANING into race the or gets the lint in tangled the is When thread will shuttle - race , cause this and shuttle between the space machine . of stoppage the running complete heavy or abrupt this occurs When the highest position take and its bar needle to the Raise 1 . bobbin out . case Fig 20 KNOBS on Pull both of shutUe the side ( Fig . 2 . race ( A > 20 21 ) then the aside , take outside and shuttte out the ring & with fingers . body your have and case put After race bobbin cleaned , shuttle been 3 . back order . them reverse all of in 21 Fig 14 —
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18 . HOW TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES markings width between Set zig - zag 1 and 2 . 1 presser foot the balance Raise the and turn 2 . wheel towards needle you to to bring highest position . its Replace regular with presser special foot buttonhole foot shown on Fig . 22 . Tighten thumb screw . stitch length closely Set obtain 3 . to spaced forward stitches . length buttonholes of stitch Best for is when is indicator placed markings between and 0 length 1 on dial . Adjust stitch , if necessary , of to get best possible appearance of buttonhole . Slightly needle 4 . thread Tighten tension , turning thread tension If appearance to the right . of buttonhole should not prove slightly satisfactory , vary tension until the results desired obtained . are It is suggested NOTE : make one that you or two sample buttonholes clipping on of fabric , a as your same test garment , to adjustments machine and of corrections , to make if needed . Also mark with chalk pencil or the and position buttonhole exact length of on garment . Adjust gauge on hottonhole presser foot ( Fig to 22 ) correspond the desired length to the of buttonhole . To determine this adjustment , measure size of button and add approximately 3 ’ 16 � The distance to from 1 / 4 � . the needle the machine or to the front of the gauge should equal this measurement . The actual sewing of the buttonhole should be done in this sequence . Fig 22 — 15 —
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and foot presser down Let . you face its have and needle under buttonhole . gauge of the reaches start needle Place stitches . 5 Leave of , row stitch first hand when right Stop another . sewing makes begin needle until you toward handwheel ) Turn - B Eig . 22 . 6 ( s . needle neede the around ) - A Fig . 22 clockwise ( . material flow . material here garment in above turn and is needle slightly until foot you presser toward Raise handwheel . 7 sew to turn stitches and - A 22 foot . Fig 4 to presser 3 Make . Lower position . ( Fig diagram rightest adjacent the to The lever neede . width materil zigzag of out Setting needle . 8 with machine . new stop to and up progressed bar closing has it as Now far ) . as setting buttonhole original its the ( to shows . 2 and ) through 1 - C markings 22 passes between row lever sewn width already zigzag the Resetting that machine sure . 9 making Stop stitches . foot presser - B purl 22 . Fig of line buttonhole second ) . the a - D sew Fig . 22 of underside ( this like the look at will groove buttonhole - hand right finished the / 8 almost paragraph The need’e . material in bed descri of out needle operation stitches with repeat few and a agatn sewing lever by width stitching zigzag lock Setting , desired � 0 . “ 10 at If points . buttonhole indicator the the finishes so , position this normal above of end its one to at returned Cutter lever Buttonhole width zigzag Insert � down with cutting left Avoid to . knob stitching feed of drop rows the two turn the between and buttonholes - C 22 Fig material reinforced cut carefully make and to , buttonholes buttonhole - shapeded lasting halfmoon and strong the of assure front to in right stitching hole buttonholes of samll the into makes size machine proper of as gimp gimp over introduce Sew buttonholes . foot presser stitch buttonhole Purl . sewing the of ordinary hole of stitch for thread as same needle the use much , appearance tension better thread For leave . thread needle the e of need tension tight a require 22D . Fig . size heavier next the
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19 . DARNING EMBROIDERING AND MONOGRAMMING Lower the feed turning by drop feed knob to “ DOWN � thus permitting the work be to moved by hand in any direction desired . Also remove presser foot and raise foot lifting lever and your machine is ready for embroidering and darning . Both will be done most successfully when material stretched is on an embroidery hoop . Hold the hoop closely on the machine base with both hands and press the material with index finger on the vicinity of the needle . This will help in holding down the material and will prevent the machine from skipping stitches . Manipulate work carefully and be sure to keep finger out of path of needle to avoid injury . Adjust thread tensions for best appearance of embroidery work and slightly decrease the upper thread tension to avoid the lower thread from being pulled up . — 17 —
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SEWING BUTTON . 20 . position highest its to needle get to you towards wheel balance Turn sewing button with , foot presser regular replace and bar presser Raise darning for required as dog feed the Drop . 23 . Fg in shown as foot same the remain tensions thread lower and Upper . ernbrmdering and . sewing ordinary for as presser the under button H with together garment or matenal Place . foot presser in hole oblong with up line button n holes that Fig so 23 foot centre through pass to needle permit to stitch zigzag of width Adjust . in button stitch will in holes needle or that sure make to you towards hand by wheel balance the turn , power with sewing Before . break will it button the hit needle the . lf button in holes the of centre the . button attach to stitches and six holes to five two sew Then of set second into stitch then , holes two of set one sew first buttons - hole four attaching When . hole last in stitches plain three or two with thread lock - I 8 —
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21 . NARROW HEMMING Turn balance wheel towards you until needle highest reaches point . its Raise presser bar and remove the regular foot . presser Attach hemmer foot ( Fig . 24 ) . 1 . Fold over edge of material approximately “ wide , fold then it over again in the same way for a length 2 of � . Insert about this folded end from beneath into spiral opening formed ( scroll ) or hemmer foot . Move material and forth back until the hem forms itself in the scroll . 2 . Pull material towards you until the beginning of is just the below hem the needle . 3 . Lower presser foot and begin to sew . Gu ide into material hemmer foot while sewing ( Fig . 24 Fig ) . 24 NOTE : Do not crowd material into scroll and do not material leave scroll into only the hemmer partly filled foot by to material , fill out the feed scroll . just Instead enough of a straight stitch , you can also use a to zigzag adjust stitch the for width this hemming of the zigzag operation . stitch Be to sure be as tensions however , wide as will the produce hem itself . a shell Using stitch . a very long stitch and tight — I —
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SEWING ZIPPER . 22 the into needle Lower . foot of side rear on screw thumb the Release . 1 needle avoide foot to the of position check and foot the of notch side foot the that sure make lock the to screw thumb Fasten . foot the strike . : on posit into portion folded the under zipper place and � d by material the of edge Fold . 2 . zipper the attach wish to you where material the of . teeth zipper along foot zipper the of edge the to close Stretch . 3 slide and screw thumb loosen , zipper the of site opoosite the on sew To . 4 . way same the 5ew and over foot the 25 Fig FELLING . 23 / 1 TOE : manner following the in proceed and felling doing for foot hemmer I the Use facing sides RIGHT their with other the of top on one cloth of pieces . two Lay . 1 . NI beyond inch about extend must piece bottom the of edge right The . other each çQt . Fig See . 26 . piece top the of edge right the - ( ( C TOPPI presser regular like a foot hemmer the using together cloth of pieces both BOITOM Sew . 2 PIECE piece bottom the guide to foot hemmer of toe long of edge right the Use . foot Fig 26 piece top the for guide a serves as toe same the of edge left the while material of . detail this shows . Fig . material 26 of . downward sides right machine on back put and material out spread and Open . 3 . stand up material of edges sewn OF5flrc7 Make . foot hemmer the of scroll the into them insert and left the to edges the over Foid hemmer of toe long of edge left Use . hemming ordinary do would you as Sew . ( Fig of it 27 alongside run seam orginal having , gLiide as 5oto - - - 20 — Fig 27
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24 . CLOTH GUIDE The cloth guide ( Fig . serves 28 ) as a gu ide for straight when stitching making wide hems , deep tucks or seam widths which greater than are presser foot allows . It is attached to machine as illustrated . 25 . QUILTING The quilter ( Fig . 29 will ) enable you to sew equidistant padded lines fabrics on without Fig the 28 necessity of marking them ’ in 1 . advance . To attach the quiter to the presser bar of the machine , loosen the presser foot thumb screw and place the quilter astride the presser foot . The quilter must be on top presser of the foot when secured on the presser bar . 2 . Adjust the width guide of the quilter to the desired and width drop guide on material . 3 . Sew with the quilter width guide following the previous stitches as in Fig . 29 . Fig 29 - — 2 - —
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SOME 26 . USEFUL SEWING HINTS TO TURN CORNERS : 1 . Stop the machine while the needle is still in the material . 2 . Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot . 3 . Lower the presser foot and resume sewing . TO SEW ELASTIC FABRICS : In sewing such elastic materials as jerseys , bias cut cloths etc . , it is advisable to sew them with reduced upper thread tension otherwise the thread will break when the sewn materials are stretched . TO SEW VERY THEN CLOTH : When sewing very thin cloth irh w tends to gather as you sew , place sheet a of newspaper or any other thin paper underneath the material ana sew with the shortest stitch possible . This will keep your work from gathering . BASTING : 1 . Reduce the tension of the upper thread and employ the longest stitch possible . 2 . The stitches may then be easily removed by pulling the lower thread . TO KEEP YOUR MACHINE IN PERFECT CONDITION : 1 . Keep all moving parts of the machine constantly oiled and clean . Do not over - machine . oil 2 . A ! ways turn handwheel toward you . 3 . Do not run machine without cloth . 4 . When sewing , do not pull the material otherwise you will bend the needle . The machine is designed to feed the material automatically . Do 5 . not operate machine when the presser bar lifter is raised . — 22 - - - I
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CAUSE 27 . OF COMMON DIFFICULTIES BREAKING OF THE UPPER THREAD : 1 Incorrect threading 2 . Upper thread tension too tight 3 . Faulty needle or needle set incorrectly 4 . Needle brushing against presser foot or other attachments 5 . Needle eye too small for thread used 6 . Starting the machine suddenly or with jerk a 7 . Starting the machine with the take up lever its at highest position BREAKING OF THE LOWER THREAD : 1 . Incorrect threading of the bobbin case 2 . Lower thread tension too tight 3 . Bobbin being wound too fully 4 . Rough edge of hole in needle plate caused by improper needle action BREAKING OF THE NEEDLE : 1 . Pulling the fabric while machine is running , thus causing , the needle to strike the needle plate 2 . Using bent needle SKIPPING STITCHES : 1 . Using bent or blunt needles 2 . Needle inserted incorrectly 3 . Needle threaded incorrectly 4 . Using wrong size needle 5 . Pressure on presser foot insufficient , especially when sewing heavy material UNEVEN STITCHES : 1 . Presser foot not resting evenly on material 2 . Feed dog not being high enough 3 . Using too short a stitch 4 . Pulling the cloth while the machine is running 5 . Using too fine a needle with to coarse a thread 23
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SIZES THREAD AND NEEDLE . 28 THREAD OF SiZE Fabric of Type Linen F Silk Cotton of and Grades Sizes & Done be to Work Needles 80 0 . fabrics summertime and - weight light to , Medium cotton Twist washable , dresses children’s , dresses 1 house 100 For — . _ curtains , aprons , dresses ) - Fine , draperies ( Medium , woolens 60 weight light B , cottons & A and silks Dress to Twist . furnishing fabric , smocks , shirts 14 men’s 80 fine , sewing household general For ) ( Medium . decorations fabric and draperies window 40 . quilts C and brocades , muslin , madras , cretonne to Heavy heavy Twist , aprons and smocks sturdy , shirts 16 work men’s 60 For . furnishings ) - Heavy fabric ( Light and quilting , ticking bed 30 , canvas weight light D , coating woven Heavy . fabrics slipcover to , materials Twist awning and upholstery linen strong 18 40 of made suits , uniforms sports or work For , ) mattresses - Heavy ( Medium and covers sUp , awnings , 60 fabdcs cotton or 10 , drilling E , ticking , duck to , coating , suiting woven to Heavy bedding Twist , uniforms wash 80 heavy For . sacking 19 30 and canvas . camps and hotels , hospitals ) ( Heavy for supplies 40 Very to . goods Coarse heavy and cloths 60 coarse 21 canvas , bags For ) - Heavy ( Extra — 24 —