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6 CONTENTS 807 Page 2 • . Machine Sewing Your Know Getting to 2 • Do What They And — Parts Principal Them Use To When And Accessories — 9 Sew to Ready Getting 9 Steps Preliminary 10 Thread and Needle Choosing Thread Needle Needle Thread 19 18 Thread Holder Spool 16 1 1 Tension Machine Discs Sewing Your Threading 15 - Winder Bobbin 16 Stiching Straight - Winder 17 Bobbin Selectors Adjusting Tension Disc 14 19 Hand Seam a Sewing Wheel 22 Stitching - Zack Zick 24 Stiching Satin 25 . Stitching - Needle Twin 25 Preparation 26 Needle the Threading 27 Buttonholes and Buttons Sewing 13 27 Buttons Light 28 Buttonholes 31 Professional Way the Sewing 31 finishes Seam , Lingerie 32 Fabrics Special Sewing on Hints 34 Details Construction 36 elastic Attaching , Aplique 37 Sewing Bed Tubular 41 Appearances Up Ke4ping ¶ 44 Machine for Your Caring 44 Machine the Cleaning 45 Bulb Plate and Face , Case Bobbin Removing 46 Checklist Performance Plate Feed Slide 10 9 Plate 1
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parts principal and what they do 827 Bobbin - Tension Disc 1 . regulates Winder thread tension for bobbin vvinding . Pressure Dial presser - regulates 2 . pressure toot on fabric , It an has all - setting purpose plus for settings extra - and light extra - heavy pressure , for and darning . Holder Spool 16 Thread Snap - in 17 Thread Needle Thread • 18 Needle 19 Dial Tension Discs Lever Tension Take - controls of 3 . needle up flow thread . 4 . Presser - Lifter , back at of machine , Foot allows you raise to and Bobbin - Winder presser lower foot . High - lift position allows easy placement of bulky Bobbin - Winder fabrics . Disc Tension Hand 14 Thread Cutter into is 5 . built bar presser for safety and convenience . Wheel Needle Clamp 6 . holds single twin needles and and is designed to eliminate possibility the of inserting needle backwards . 7 . Presser holds Foot fabric against feed . The feet snap off for quick removal . 8 . Plate Needle lifts out for easy removal . Guidelines on and right left extend sides slide plate to to help keep you seams straight . moves Feed fabric 9 . under the presser foot . 10 . Plate Slide opens for removal easy and replacement of the bobbin , and 13 Sewing and raises lowers the pin that holds the plate needle in place . Light Extension 11 . Table lets you convert machine the for either flat or tubular bed sewing . Extension 12 . Table Release Push Button unlocks the extension table . Sewing 13 . Light illuminates the sewing area . 14 . Hand Wheel positions take - and up lever needle . Always turn it toward you . Bobbin - 15 . Winder lets fill the you bobbin with thread quickly and easily . Spool Holder with 1 6 . Horizontal Pin holds thread spools of various sizes . Holder lets thread unwind tug without or drag . 1 7 . Snap - Thread in Post Guide provides smooth flow of thread Table from Extension 12 Button spool holder tension Push Release to discs . Needle - Thread 1 8 . Tension Dial lets you select just the right tension for stitch , your thread , and fabric . The numbers eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings . 1 9 . Needle - Thread Tension Discs , controlled by the dial , tension regulate the amount of tension on needle your thread . 3 2
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) ( COntinUud PARTS PRINCIPAL and stitching - zag zig , of width the controls Hand . 24 Wheel Selector engages Knob Width hand Stitch . 20 straight for I setting Use . stitching straight wheel for sewing . to mechanism needle Loosen positions knoh for . bobbin winding . stitching or center , left either in needle places Selector - Position Needle . 21 . stitching straight for position center Use . position stitching right including O , lengths stitch of variety a for allows Dial Control Stitch . 22 . stitching satin - zag zig for 1 . direction stitching reverse you lets Button Push - Stitch Reverse . 23 24 Wheel Hand Knob . 25 Transparent Bobbin shows thread . supply is easily 25 . Transparent removed for bobbin Bobbin - - - . . winding / . 26 Power and Light Switch turns on the power and the sewing light . simultaneously . 27 Electrical Connections and Speed Controller are designed for con venience and . safety Selector Width Stitch 20 See instructions for Connecting Selector - Position machine Needle 21 and operating / ne mach and / er control on Control Dial Stitch 22 page . 9 Electrical 27 - Stitch Reverse 23 Connections and Button Push Speed Controller 4 5
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them use to when and accessories . FEE [ ) - COVER PLATE make accessories in included Parts use in simple are there feed - easier , The cover plate which sewing allows free limited no almost fabric movement permitted for is used and darning operations . sewing ( page embroidery of number 43 and ) , button sew ing ( page covering By 27 ) . the feed FOOT PURPOSE GENERAL with feed - the cover plate the fabric is PLATE NEEDLE AND not moveable . Plate Feed - Cover general the and foot purpose general The the on place in are plate needle purpose CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE sewing , utility all for them Use machine . Positioning Pin • Raise presser Needle foot . Plate ( You do not need stitching . zig - zag or straight either with remove to the foot . ) Purpose General Purpose General Plate Needle Foot • Turn hand wheel toward you until needle is in its highest position . • slide Open plate with downward finger pressure . FOOT ZIPPER • thumb Place under needle plate and stitching place to used foot is zipper The draw plate the right remove . to to fitted to be can It raised edge . a to close Locking Pin either on use for shank presser - the foot • Insert needle new plate under locking Plate Slide it for : Use needle . the of side left or right pin and over positioning pin . seams • Corded • Close plate . slide cording • Tubular insertion • Zipper CHANGING PRESSER FEET The presser feet that are supplied with machine your snap on Foot and off common Zipper a shank . change To the foot : Plate Needle Changing • Raise presser - lifter foot and turn hand wheel toward you raise to needle to its highest FOOT position . PURPOSE SPECIAL all for used • Press toe of is presser foot foot upward purpose ( as special The Shank Use stitching . far as will it and go ) then zig - snap zag decorative down of kinds to remove the foot . for : foot this Foot • Center the new presser stitching foot under the satin • Zig - zag and lower shank presser - the foot lifter • Applique shank that over so fits presser - the foot • Buttonholes pin . stitching • Twin - needle • Press down on presser - screw foot until foot snaps into place . Foot Purpose Special Presser Foot Changing 7 6
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( Continued ) ACCESSORIES BOBBINS steps proliminary shows , bobbin - in drop , Transparent Transparent . glance at supply a thread MACHINE CONNECTING THE Bobbin sure , machine plugging be in your Before NEEDLES number cycles and voltage of the that - purpose all needles for 705 H Type • under hand the the indicated on plateur sewing power electrical yo to wheel conform - point ( yellow ball 705 HS Type • supply . and knits sewing , needles for ) band receptacle into the machine thpluge the Push . fabrics stretch machine Then bed . end right of the at decora twin needle for H Type 705 - line to power your plug the connect . stitching - needle twin tive • . outlet electrical MACHINE OPERATING AND PLATE FEED - COVER ATTACHING CONTROLLER need not do . presser foot Needle Twin ( You Needle Raise 1 . Regular machine sewing and both on turn To the remove ) . foot to Ball - point swith to power light ON and is , light until pressed you toward wheel hand Turn 2 . Needle Band ) ( Yellow switch be visible ) . will baron position ( r . position highest its at Plug Machine the under machine plate press light , and off - cover feed turn Slide To 3 . Screw Needle - Clamp are pins securing , foot until . position presser OFF bar to switch at red needle in holes over directly located Connections Electrical . down snap Then . plate turn recommend : that you CAUTION We switch before power fight and the off NEEDLE CHANGING THE and needle presser feet , , / es need changing the that designed so is needle clamp The machine un leaving the when plates and flat the with inserted be needle can only / ilty eliminates possib the . attended This change To back . the needle to the of side accidentally machine by the starting of Clamp Needle : needle the ON speed controller . pushing the , position highest to its needle bar Raise 1 . re , and screw - clamp needle loosen Back the press Flat speed , Side . to machine the To run OFF . needle move faster the harder The you press , controller . and Switch Power Light the with clamp , needle in new Insert 2 . . sew machine will the push the needle to back ; the flat of side go . will it as far up as it Needle the , sewing from Changing machine the To stop screw . - clamp needle Tighten 3 speed controller . pressure from remove HOLDERS SPOOL various spools of hold holders The spool spool horizontal the position on in sizes turn , does not spool Because pin . or drag . tug without unwinds thread PIN SPOOL DETACHABLE is pin spool detachable Detachable Large and secondary Small The Speed Controller . sewing Pin Spool - needle Holders twin Spool used for 9 8
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choosing needle and thread throading your sewing machino and The needle thread you choose will depend upon the fabric being Like all sewing machines that produce stitched . The table below is a practical guide to needle and thread selection , what is called a “ lockstitch � , your se it Refer to before starting sewing a project . Be sure to use the same size and wing machine sews with two threads . of thread in both type needle and bobbin . The upper thread comes from the spool and is threaded through the eye of the needle . The lower thread comes from bobbin , the small transparent spool TABLE FABRIC , THREAD AND NEEDLE that you wind using the machine . It is best to wind the bobbin before the NEEDLES needle . FABRIC THREAD Type Size — tulle , chiffon . Fine DELICATE polyester , nylon , 705 H 70 fine > ate , organza and cotton thread ( 9 ) Spool Holders mercerized LiGHTWEIGHT — batiste , 50 cotton H 705 80 THE SPOOL HOLDER jersey , voile , faffeta , “ A � silk organdy , ( 11 ) • Remove spool holder from spindle by velvet , plastic film thread crepe , chiffon , Polyester sliding it to the left , Cotton - wrapped polyester • Place spool of thread on horizontal MEDIUM WEIGHT — gingham , mercerized cotton H 50 705 90 spool pin . If spool being used has linen , a cotton percale , piqué , chintz , 60 ( 14 ) “ A � silk retaining faille , slit , this should satin , fine velvet be placed corduroy , suitings , deep - pile fabrics , vinyl Polyester thread against the spool cushion on the right . Cotton - wrapped polyester • Select correct spool holder according to MEDIUM HEAVY — gabardine , Heavy - duty 705 H 100 type and diameter of the end of the tweed , sailcloth , denim , coatings mercerized cotton ( 16 ) spool being used , The diameter of theys vinyl , drapery fabrics , deep - pile 40 to 60 cotton end of the spool holder should alwa fabrics Polyester thread be larger than that of the spool itself . Heavy - duty HEAVY — overcoatings , H 110 705 holder • Press spool firmly against spool . denim , upholstery fabrics , mercerized cotton ( 18 ) canvas 24 40 cotton to Loosening Hand Wheel Knob Polyester thread ALL WEIGHTS — decorative “ D � silkf 705H 100 ( 16 ) stitch straight topstitching < Buttonhole twist ) or THE BOBBIN THREAD in fabrics woven 110 ( 18 ) Winding the Bobbin KNIT , WOVEN , STRETCH “ A � nylon 705 HS 90 • Raise the presser and ELASTIC foot and FABRICS — turn the hand mercerized 50 cotton Ball - Point ( 14 ) polyester doubleknit , spandex , “ A � silk wheel toward ( Yellow you until Band > needle is at its nylon , tricot , ciré tricot , jersey , Cotton - wrapped highest position , panné velvet polyester • Loosen the hand wheel knob by turning LEATHER — suede , kidskin , mercerized 50 cotton 705 H 80 ( 11 ) it toward you with the right hand while capeskin , lambslin , lined Polyester thread 90 ( 14 ) holding the hand wheel with the left leathers “ A � silk 100 ( 16 ) hand , Cotton - wrapped • Open . slide plate to make bobbin polyester accessible LIGHT and MEDIUM mercerized 50 cotton 705 H 90 ( 14 ) • Lift out bobbin and close slide plate to WEIGHTS — decorative ( twin ) make sure needle plate is secure while twin - needle stitching Removing Bobbin winding . in woven fabrics mercerized or “ A � silk bobbin . Use with 50 cotton in t 10 11
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) ( Continued THREAD 801381N THE CASE BOBBIN THE THREADING that so bobbin Hold . plate slide Open . 1 and , shown direction in unwinds thread . case bobbin in bobbin put under it draw , notch into thread Pull . 2 . slot into back and spring tension . pin spool on thread of spool Place • post guide thread the in thread Snap winder bobbin around thread lead then . above illustrated , as disc tension through , inside the from , thread Pass • on bobbin place and bobbin in hole . spindle right the to spindle and bobbin Push • Hold thread . winder of inches bobbin three about the Draw engage . 3 to the start . bobbin and shown the across as diagonally end thread . speed moderate at winding , machine coils few a after end thread off Cut • . bobbin the on wound been have has thread of amount required When • when stop will ( winding wound been con Cut . machine stop ) , full is bobbin . thread necting the toward spindle and boobin Push • Re to . thread winder allowing bobbin plate slide disengage Close . 4 left to and plate needle the between slot enter . bobbin move . plate slide . sewing for knob wheel hand Tighten • Knob Wheel Hand Tightening 13 12
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THREAD NEEDLE THE THREAD BOBBIN TIlE ! G \ RAISII thread Lead and bobbin the wound have you that Now under right raise need to will , you needle the threaded , , , , up , guide hole needle through the thread bobbin the . plate needle the in left with lightly thread needle Ho’d . 1 slowly wheel hand turn and hand hole enters needle that so you toward . plate needle in ’ thread Lead Spring under and spring guide left and wheel hand turning Continue . 2 needle until Left thread needle holding ide needle the on hold your Tighten . rises a thread in bobbin up bring and thread . loop to its return to spring Jlow con and position up normal machine the threading tinue Needle the Threading lever - up take raise to wheel hand Turn . 1 presser andraise , position highest its to . discs tension the / ease re to foot . fingers your with loop the Open . 3 holder spool on thread of spool Place . 2 points as through all thread lead and sure : making to , shown guiding while illustrated as thread Hold • . discs tension into thread . illustrated as discs tension Thread • threads bobbin and needle both Place . 4 , front back to from lever - up take Thread • back to draw and , foot presser under lever of over top down thread guiding . machine of . eyelet into then up and , back front to from needle Thread • thread of cm 1 0 about sew drawing to ready now are You . needle of eye through 15 14
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1jdjusti selectors a for your fabric ADJUSTING move STITCH LENGTH Before your selectors to set you the sewing machine straight stitching , for The longth stitch dial regulates the length hand wheel toward until turn you the the of stitches . The numbers of the dial ex needle above the is needle plate . press length stitch in the mm ; higher the p • number onger the the stitch . Generally , shorter stitch are best for lightweight fabric ; longer ones for heavy fabric . The is 0 - 1 area for used the adjustment of zig MACHINE THE SEfl1NG zag stitching . satin to position selector • Move needle j ( center ) . on width stitch • selector Set Position Needle Setting the Selector • Turn dial so that the stitch SEW TO STARTING length desired is positioned under the V under needle and threads bobbin • Place symbol on the control panel . of back to draw and presser foot • To shorten the stitch length , machine . turn the dial clockwise to a lower number . where fabric needle • Position in the the • To lengthen the stitching start . stitch , desired for turn the dial counterclockwise to higher a number . the presser start and foot • the Lower machine . variety of on wide a perfectly sew To and length , pressure stitch fabrics , adjust the on instructed tension as thread Width Stitch pages . following For reverse stitching , press the reverse - stitch push button ( located in the center of the dial ) in as far as it will go and hold in place ( the button can be pushed in while the machine is sewing ) . Release pressure on the push button to return to forward stitching . ( For detailed instructions on adjusting the stitch Accessories length for zig - zag satin stitching , seepage 24 . Reverse ) Stitching 16 17
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) ( Continued seam STITCHING a sewin7 STRAIGHT BASTING PIN PRESSURE ADJUSTING be can and will - saver dial a time is basting pressure Pin on settings Numbered - handle - to easy pressure sew you when correct used obtaining in you assist Increase : place them ) and ( normal To pins fine , . e fabric NORM U . using are you fabric for sewing for setting purpose the all an on is ( never setting fabric the of top On • different of fabrics of variety ) . feed wide the with contact a underside in and above Settings . textures and weights . line stitching the to angles right At • . provided also are setting Decrease NORM To below the regulate the at , control fabric the into extra nipping need Just you • When to pressure under extending lighter ( never or line heavier stitching to setting ) . foot presser . sewn the of sides being both suitfabric embroidery an without darning When See . , setting lowest at dial set , hoop I . instructions 42for page Lower . pressure setting before foot presser Lower Presser from Foot dial turn , pressure increase To • ( maxi MAX toward ) ( normal NORM ) . mum from dial turn , pressure Pressure decrease Adjusting To • toward ) ( normal Dial NORM SEAM A STARTING on dial set , darning For • . length desired for dial length stitch Set . 1 TENSION THREAD REGULATING too because important is tension Correct seams your weaken will little too or much a Make . pucker to fabric your cause or you thread and fabric with sample fabric test align , up foot presser With . 2 Loose stitch Too perfect A Tight . it Too examine and use on to plan guideline seam appropriate with threads bobbin and needle fol have the on will described ( as plate needle with fabric of layers two fa between in needle locked Position ) . page lowing . puckers no and bottom ed or back top on the loops from no cm . 2 1 about bric of degree . the ge regulates dial tension The it Set . thread needle your on tension fabric and thread of type the to according eliminate dial the on Decrease numbers increase The . use you . settings duplicating in guesswork the to Backstitch . foot presser Lower . 3 look sample test your in reinforcement by stitches for the fabric If the of edge If . tension - thread needle push increase - stitch reverse , loose the in pushing . tension decrease , puckers the of center fabric the the in located button button the Hold . dial higher length stitch dial to turn , tension increase To • the of edge reach the stitches until the . number forward for release then fabric and lower to dial turn , tension decrease Correct To • hi . ng sti Ic . number Tension Thread Adjusting 19 18
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) ( Contmued STITCHING STRAIGHT SUPPORTING AND STRAIGHT GUIDING SEAM THE KEEPING FAbRIC THE numbt the of one , use stitch your As in guided guide be only to need a as needle plate hhrics the on Most lines red , fabrics Some Num . straight . foot presser seams the of the keeping front for eights a of while being distances in support indicate require bers , however 1.5 want a you If and . , needle velvet the panné from , sheers cm Filmy . stitched - right keep the , example taut for held , seam be cm need to , example for , tricots number on the fabric your of hand edge while presser foot the of back and front in . guideline 5 . sewn being . 2cm 1 . 5cm 1 . 9cm 1 Fabric Guiding while fabric the pull not Do : CAUTION 1 the deflect may this stitching as are you Guidelines Using . break to it causing needle SEAM OF END REINFORCING . edge fabric the to Stitch . 1 button - stitch push reverse in Push . 2 Cornering reinforce to backstitch cm 1.5 and Crosslines . seam of the end the fabric remove and foot presser Raise . 3 and . left back the it drawing to by of rear at cutter thread on threads Cut Fabric . 4 Supporting presser . bar CORNERS SQUARE TURNING from corner cm 1 square . 5 turn To a Crosslines at Fabric measure need not , edge you fabric the the . seam use Simply the mark or . plate slide the crosslines on left or right with fabric your up Line • . Stitch plate needle the on 5 guideline approach you as speed slowing , seam . corner , down needle the with , stitching Stop • fabric the of edge bottom the when the crosslines on cornering the reaches . plate slide on fabric turn and foot presser Raise • fabric of edge bottom bringing Turning Fabric after , needle . 5 guideline with line in Corner at Pivoting new presser in stitch and foot Lower the • Seam Ending a . direction 21 20
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V LENGTH STITCH ADJUST1FdC moving needle width Before and stitch . I selectors needle make is sure position will to 4 from 1 setting length stitch Any . fabric above higher The . stitch - zag zig open an you give farther or , more open , numbcr the the , area stitch The will . stitches he your , apart for used is , dial the on and 1 0 between next stitching ( see satin - zag zig adjusting DESIGN WIDTH OF ADJUSTING > . instructions specific for page , pattern stitch - zag zig a move produce To from selector straight width stitch the - zag setting zig any to to setting stitch 1111 is increased Stitch width the . right as the Width Stitch Adjusting . the right moved to selector is Dial Length Stitch / ‘ \ Decorative ’ — r ‘ Buttonhole Sewing Stitching CHOOSING AND PRESSURE ADJUSTING Button Sewing STITCH ADJUSTING Narrow at IES ACCESSOR ENT PLACEM Widths used Most adjusting for on instructions Setting � Stitching for “ Straight 18 under page to Turn will stitching - zag basic your zig of Most Needle Single . pressure . needle position in center done be ( ) Work ( righr and settings are to and 7 Left and 6 pages to refer , accessories choosing ) ) ( on information For Placement Stitch Adjusting in , placement stitch special as for in used included patterns - zag stitch zig with sewing for instructions detailed button sewing and . sewing buttonhole . 31 page on starts � Way that Proffesional the “ Sewing called section the DZmrr - THREAD NEEDLE ADJUSTING - . Too Tight Purpose General TENSION Foot U - needle less requires stitching - zag Zig . stitching straight thread tension than sample with fabric the and test a Make you can so to that use you thread plan Purpose General . properly The stitches tension the adjust Zipper Foot Plate Needle fabric the without should lie against flat fabric . pucker causing the to d Correct and fabric not the If is flat stitches the are tension - thread reduce , needle puckered Purpose Special . number lower turning dial a by to the Tension - Thread Needle Adjusting Foot 23 22
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stitching ; atin produce can you , needle twin a spaced using closely series of By — a stitching Satin decorative , spaced closely , parallel - satin , smooth two form that a stitches - zag zig You . simultaneously stitching practical of lines for both useful — is surface like thread of colors two o _ _ _ _ or one either use . work can decorative and - straight either a choose an stitch you produce satin a and to wish you When . stitch , example - zag zig , for stitch tacks or bar appliqué or for can you that so first sample test a make tension thread and length stitch the adjust II back require a may fabrics Soft . properly II Crisp . stitching satin firm ensure to ing II 1 @ this for suitable center Only is organdy or lawn MACHINE II THE SETTING . purpose III I Stitching Q9 Straight — AND ACCESSORIES : only Position Needle • j SETTINGS SELECTOR : Width Stitch • Stitching Straight i4 : Position Optional Needle : Length • j Stitch • Plate Needle Purpose General • to ; Width Stitch • Foot Purpose General • : Length 0 - 1 Stitch • Plate Needle Purpose General • Adjusting Length Stitch Purpose Foot Special • : Pressure • NORM Stitching - Zag Zig only : Position Needle , n • tJn . , i Length Stitch Adjusting illustrations at right : Width See Stitch • 1 to dial selector length stitch Turn 1 Optional : Length Stitch • ) . area ( thebeginningof Maximum 1 - 0 Plate Needle Purpose Setting General • . speed slow at a machine Run . 2 Incorrect ) Stitching ( Open Purpose dial Foot length General stitch • the Gradually turn 3 . closely are ) stitches Stitching until clockwise ( Satin Purpose Foot Special • II II center Only . surface smooth a and form spaced Correct Tension Thread Adjusting than tension requires less stitching Satin - zag stitch stitching zig open straight or the , stitch , the Futrhermore wider . ing the Stitching Zig - Zag . be must thread on tension lighter the the the If stitching your on . sample the Notice must setting - needle the position lower , puckered fabric needle is ) j Center ( exceed not must dial tension width the tension turning thread by Stitch . used be . right . number lower at a illustrated to settings Adjusting Tension Thread 25 24
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) ( Continued STITCHING - NEEDLE TWIN ) 90 ( size H 705 Type , needle twin Use buttons NEEDLE TWIN THE INSERTING make , needle twin the inserting Before : Needle Position ) ( left - purpose • general . L the using are you sure position needle the that anç1 plate needle Presser General Purpose Foot • width stitch the and , at set is dial Plate Cover Feed • on shown settings the exceed not does . page25 raise simply , needle twin the insert To quickly sewn be buttons on and can Flat the loosen and point highest its to needle . - zag stitch The plain using easily the zig single the Remove . screw - clamp needle between button the holes in the space its in needle twin the insert and needle . settings width For determines stitch screw - clamp needle Tighten . place , standard spacing with hole use buttons . securely For . shown and as settings buttons , spacing setting use unusual hole with stitching - needle twin decrease Increase for or width the and threading ( . necessary the as Thread . thread synthetic or mercerized 50 . No use , results best For center between thread pass except , stitching - needle single for as machine secondary Attach needle ( see . plate - cover needle . 1 Attach feed of eye right through and , discs tension back and guide through spool second ) . 7 page from thread Pass . cover top on hole in pin spool between then , illustrated as ) post guide thread needle and at width - in stitch snap Set . 2 the - passing ( by making , points remaining through Thread . discs Position button ) . ( left tension position at front and center through thread pass and needle the above guide into needle lower and foot thread under the omit to certain turning hand hole left by of center . needle of eye left Turn Lower . foot . you toward wheel needle wheel until you hand toward above button and is just of rises out . thefoot - wide zig width medium at stitch Set . 3 width . stitch setting Check ( zag ) toward slowly wheel tUrning hand by right enter the should needle the ; you more Take six . button or of the hole End . button attach stitches - zag to zig . side left on stitch , stitching return to fasten To . 4 . stitches four or three and take width - cover the from plate feed Remove when - purpose plate needle general N . completed is work N % f 27 26
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, JlDTH STITCH side [ or one buttonholes : making for required are settings width stitch buttonholes Two illustrated . are combinations possible Two tack . the bar for one and stitching POSITION BUTTONHOLE Placement Horizontal keep rtoom are essential fguidelinesorm Accurate Grain on Crosswise f thed , uni distance a ebuttonholes space evenly garment , the edg of faced For center fabric . of the grain the on landosures , follows : as guidelines place c as garmentide line of the centerour the 1 Markicated gu pattern . This y on ind Setting Selector Setting Selector should and basted hand be line can Tack for Bar Tack Bar for fabric thread . lengthwise a follow for each guideline position a Mark 2 . Setting Selector Setting Selector hole . button Side Stitching for Stitching for Side plahe are buttonholes Horizontal t beyond mm extend 3 ced to garhe the of basting center - line t for guidelines oHorizontaluld ment . cross follow a sh buttonholes if and , fabric , of the thread wise > on Placement Vertical finished than the longerttonhole . basted , bethe Grain Lengthwise Determineas bu length of Procedure ( buttonhole the length of the of stitch area in 0 - 1 length Set stitchial . of and mark ends below ) describedttonhole foot . purpose special d Attach length vertically . bu each needle , at selector the pattern Set so placed are buttonholes Vertical width , and stitch at selector position the of basting center - line the that for the side desired width the at selector the of the in center is garment needle , align under work Place stitching . buttonhole Determine buttonholes . with buttonhole of marking ing center tbuttoner ends of each mark and length foot . purpose special the in slot center cen across the horizontallye hole basting center - lineen use th line anduttonhole stitch wh guide b as a Buttonhole i ng . Guide Length Stitching Side Markings A . fabric at point needle in Position marking . to end of foot and bstitchric Lower Raise in fa B . at point needle Leave Lower work needle . on and pivot foot LENGTH BUTTONHOLE changing stitch without foot . one Take O ; C ope button long the how Bar First , decide Button work bringing width setting , to point C . 0 to the mm Tacks 2 Then , add be . ning must Opening bar tack for each ( the measurement of the but end at each stitches closing of the but the length To find tonhole ) . Bar Tack of fa slit in scrap a cut a opening , ton in button you the diameter of the bric Adjust selector stitch width for bar Length tacks of Buttonhole of opening length Increase tend to use . and six stitches . take at least Stop Button at point Stitching easily . through button slips I until D . Opening 29 28
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BUTTONHOLES ( Continuecfl Side Stitching LINGERIE SEAMS Readjust make To stitch uams width in lingerie selector durable for and side flexible , stitching . use Complete a combination work of to straight point and E . zig - Leave zag needle stitching . in fabric . Method 1 For 1.5 cm bias seam in woven fabric : For • Straight - a t5 cm stitch Seam the seam ( with stitch width at on wrong side of fabric . ) • Press both seam allowances in the same direction . Then , from the right : i . side , top - stitch with narrow zig - zag stitching , letting needle alternately enter Final seam Bar line and Tack seam thickness . Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks , and take at least six stitches ending at point F . Method 2 For narrow seams in nylon tricot : For a Narrow Seam • Cut fabric for 1.5 cm seam allowance . • Straight - stitch seam line on wrong side > > of fabric . Then place line a medium - of > wide , open zig - zag stitching close to straight the stitching . 72 ii SEAM FINISHES Li • Needle Position : j Fastening Stitch Trimming • Stitch Width : or Seam Edges ( maximum ) after Stitching To secure stitching , move selector to I and take three stitches . Remove work , • Stitch Length : 1,2 to 3 mm depending on draw threads to underside , fasten , and choice of stitch end fabric trim . opening Cut for button with sharp • General Purpose Needle Plate and Foot scissors . Seam edges support the garment and should given be durable a finish if the likely fabric is to ravel . There are two methods of finishing seams in such fabrics : trimming seam edge Overedging or over - edging . Make test a sample first Trimmed deter to Seam ii mine which method best suits your fabric . Edge 30 31
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fabrics spocial sewing on hints Fur ) ( Fake FABRICS DEEP - PILE VINYL LEATHER - LOOK Place seams . baste , than rather • Pin , or tape masking zipper adhesive Use • angles right at intervalsins close at pinsthe or basting of pins to hold instead tape colored mwithove . P line . seameasy to and in place hems for zippers seams , re and see to are heads stitching . nap . of direction in • Sew stitch long 3mm ) . with to a ( 1 • Stitch machiner ! longe fairly a with • Stitch fabric . cut the short stitch may A polyeste us siitch ( 2,5to3mm ) and and even steady , pace with a • Sew or 100 90 size in a thread cotton cannot Seams be accurately . stitch needle . H 705 Type needle leaving without oute ripped away pile tsmoothh stitched , is seam • As th fabric . in marks darning wi a allowancepin . seam from to vinyls tends of some side shiny • The upholstery or needle of Use a strip metal surfaces . to stick cm with a 1 . 5 seams stitching • After and the paper between fabric tissue shande small use allowance , seam this . to prevent surfaces machine metal entire from pile shear to scissors garment seams and aholdsnd • Topstitching bulk . reduce to allowance am a adds flat and smooth edges into tape pre - shrunk mm 6 Stitch • note . decorative sta seams for shoulder and neckline and areas buttonhole button Reinforce • stitch or reinforcement and bility Bound buttonholes interfacing . with stitch . stretch straight the with knit vinyls with for choice the best are com Pile away fabrics Smoothing leather - look and Leather • backing . Allowance Seam from for bound them use fur fabrics ; plement Stitchingt Diagonal and on collars lapels , points nsharpe • For loops . button easy and buttonholes Poin Across the diagonally stitches o or two takeross are if they bulky are less hems Coat • allow space enough Fabrics the point Deep - Pile ac to fa cm a with 8 finished and narrow seam the edge . smoothly enclose to ribbon . grosgrain or facing bric darts fold of center theopen , through • Slash a withway or stitchim finger - gpressafter and and Tricot ) Taffeta ( Wet - Look ClR a tr and stitch zig - za narrow stitching . basting of pins to instead or adhesive fabric tapestitching . zipper tape or masking excess • Useld in place for hems and zippers , seams , ho AND VELVETEENt needle marks VELVET cannot out because ripped be seams accurately ; • Stitch pile . crushing prevent to dial setting the fabric . in ( emain light - pressure a • Use and front fabric slightly holding taut at by tension light under Sew seams • silk thread . with baste and • Mark needle . back of seaming . “ A � for thread a fine and needle , H , 80 size 705 Type • Use a mm to use an and fairly long 3 stitch 2,5 with ciré taffeta Stitch a • velvet . for recommended is thread nylon or silk hems . seams and for finish edge enclosed nap . of the direction the in stitch • Always fine and mm a use length - stitch ciré medium 2 • Stitch with knitsle . a under stitch and then together baste need ball - point hand pin or seams , unpuckered • gForht machine may be seams straight Extra - long , 18 ) . page ( seeng , tensionh can li buttonholes ) be as bound ( as twellerfacing buttonholes • Machine - worked stitch . zig - zag wide lo wit a basted make and the close an in sure use Alwaysthe fabric . in cirë made fabric . not cut do stitches zig - zag shorter - than - normal a and needle ball - point use a velvet , panné sew • To to 2 mm ) . ( 1.5 length stitch 33 32
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details construction TOPSTITCHING ZIPPERS accent the way to simple A practical , the notions At counter in your Sewing is to place one or or coat dress lines of a Center , will you find many different collars , stitching along ofedges , rows moreels , kinds of zippers , one of which will be pockets , seams , etc . rfacinged lap just right for whatever you want to regular lines of look , use tailo For a The zipper package will contain sew . with button sew themasis . stitching ; wstraightist easy - to - follow instructions for inser emph For decora for added hole t ting zipper . And , with the the zipper zig - zag stitch . use tive interest , a foot , you will find it easy to form an even line stitching of close to the zip - per . Topstitching Stitch Zig - Zag with a Needle Position : Interfacing in Dart a Stitch Width : in Making a Steps Zipper Insertion a General Purpose Needle Plate a Zipper Foot Position Block Attaching the Zipper Foot When the zipper is to the right of the needle : Step 1 on • Move position block zipper foot toof left , allow shank to enter right side , to that needle will right foot so enter notch in foot . INTERFACING IN DARTS zipper is the left of the needle : When the to • Move position block on zipper foot to Position : • Needle 1 . allow shank enter left side of right , to to Zipper Foot Zipper Foot that needle will enter left notch foot , so ( maximum ) Width : • Stitch Needle Right of to to Left of Needle in foot . fabric suit mm or to Length : 1 • Stitch Step 2 zipper foot is snapped onto shank as ( The Foot Plate and Needle Purpose • General on 7 . ) instructed page CORDED SEAMS can be interfacings stitching , zig - zag With professional corded seam is a treat The bulk . without shaped slipcovers , children’s clothes , ment for the on allowance dart the Cut out 1 . and lingerie . To make a cordedit blouses , line . stitching make welting first ( or buy seam , the pin or aandy . together edges raw Bringte 2 . notions counter ) , thense ready - made at a st muslin over place a in bas seam . For both steps , u it into the stitchzipper Step 3 of close ends the stitching both foot - to place at the backstitching Stitch , 3 . Making Welting for a cord . to the reinforcement . for dart Corded Seam 35 34
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tubui3r bed sewing for 82 : ’ APPLIQUE Appliqué adds beauty and interest clothing to and household linens . You can create your own design , trace simple a outline from a coloring book , or use a motif cut from a printed fabric . Fabrics of like different or texture combine equally well . closely A spaced zig - zag stitch is most commonly used in appliqué work . Athough you may vary stitch width accomodate to fabric weave or tex ture , never allow the stitch to be wide . too Preparation • Baste appliqué design to fabric . • Outline design with straight stitching ( short use a stitch ) . • Remove basting and press . • Attach special purpose foot . Appliquéing 1 . Set machine for desired stitch width . Adjust stitch length the in 0 area - 1 of the stitch length dial . Outline 2 . the entire design with appliqué stitching . away Cut the 3 . fabric on the outer edges of the stitching with embroidery scissors . ATtACHING ELASTIC tubular The bed simplifies fabric hand Elastic will remain stretchable when it is ling when you sew circular and hard - attached with the plain zig - zag stitch . to - reach garment areas . few A of the The flexible joining produced by this sewing jobs for which you will find it stitch allows elastic banding to he particularly useful are illustrated . To stitched under , over , or between fabric prepare your machine for tubular bed layers , making particularly it useful in the sewing , press the extension table construction lingerie of and swimsuits . release push - button and remove the extension table . • Needle Position : j Width : • Stitch ( maximum ) Attaching Elastic with • Stitch Length : About 1.25 mm Plain Zig - Zag • General Purpose Needle Plate and Foot 36 37
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TUBULAR BED SEWING ( Continued ) CUFFS HATS , BAGS AND DOLLS Attaching CLOTHES a cuff to a gathered sleeve or accenting it with decorative Use top the tubular bed of your machine stitching is greatly simplified when when you you make hats , bags and dolls ’ use the tubular bed . The fabric flows clothes . You will find it a real advan smoothly around the bed giving tage you for seaming small circular areas , full visibility and control of the seam and in the placement of decorative top line . stitching . 38 39
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1UBULAR BED SEWING ( Continued ) keeping up appearanco MENDl1 ’ JC The zig - zcg stitch is just as useful for mending zt it is for crearive sewing . It forms flexible a bond fr repairing tears and stretch garments . Mending Tear a . Needle Position : 1 . • Stitch Width : or ( maximum ) • Stitch Length : About 1 mm • General Purpose Needle Plate and Foot K 1 . Trim ragged edges . Place 2 . underlay on the wrong side of Tear Mended with tear for reinforcement . ( It is best not Zig - Zag Stitch baste to pin or the underlay since you will be bringing the edges of tear together in the next step . ) Stitch 3 . on the right side , bringing the edges of tear the together . Shorten 4 . stitch length at ends and corners give to extra strength . 5 . Trim underlay . BADGES , EMBLEMS AND INSIGNIA Badges , emblems and Bar Tacks insignia of all sizes and shapes can be quickly Bar tacks , to reinforce points of strain , are attached to shirts and uniforms when made with the zig - zag stitch at satin stitch the tubular bed is used . Slip the sleeve length . Use them at pocket corners , to at or other hard - to - reach area over the tach garters , secure shoulder straps , belt tubular bed and secure emblem with loops and zipper openings . zig - zag sewing . Bar - Tacked Belt Loops 40 41
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KEi : PING UP API’EARAN F ( Coiiiiiud ) DARNING Embroidery Hoop with • Darning Worn or torn spots on children’s clothes , knits , and household linens can he darned Position : • Needle j effortlessly and quickly with little practice . You may choose to darn either with or Width o Stitch without an embroidery hoop . When Area 1 0 In Length : • Stitch greater control is needed , an embroidery Plate hoop Cover is usually • Feed best . • NoPresSerFoot Lowered Darning • Bar : Presser without Embroidery Hoop Plate Feed - Cover Needle Position : j Preparation ( by shank with toot presser Remove Stitch Width : the fastens which screw the removing • Stitch Length : feed - Attach mm 2 bar ) . presser the to shank at for Instruction • General - Purpose plate . Needle needle Plate cover and Foot on given is plate feet - cover • Pressure : the taching page 8 . 1 . If the area to bedarned is open , baste an to be area edges from ragged Trim 1 . Darning Without underlay in place . darned . Embroidery Hoop Place 2 . area to embroidery be darned in under section worn presser Center 2 . foot ; lower presser foot and start hoop . stitching , alternately drawing fabric over feed - needle under Position work 3 . toward you and pulling it gently away presser bar to lower and plate cover from you . tension . engage Continue 3 . left this with forward loosely thread and needle backward Hold 4 . motion as draw you fill and the over wheel area hand with turn parallel hand , lines of Hold stitching . fabric . through For tip thread additional bobbin strength , cover needle lower area and with ends thread crosswise both lines of stitching . fabric . into running with darned be area to Outline 5 . Repairing reinforcement . Stretch for stitches Garments hoop moving opening , across Stitch 6 . • Needle Position . from angle slight needle at a under of Keep lines right . upper to left lower • Stitch Width : to even in and spaced closely stitching length . • Stitch Length • 1 or suitfabric to with cover area filled , opening is • General When Purpose Needle 7 . Plate and Foot stitching . of lines crosswise Seams and hems in stretch and elasticized move fabric controlling garments method of This retain their elasticity when stit be hoop may embroidery with an ched ment with the zig - zag stitch . This stitch is Stretch mono Garment and embroidering Repair particulary do used to effective when used in top - Hoop Embroidery With Darning gramming . stitch applications las shown ) or to over - machine into not included Hoop edge . Embroidery Make a test sample to check selec accessories . tor settings . 42 43
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bobbin romoving case , taco pl & . bulb and cleaning the machine V Before removing CAUTION : bobbin Foot Your Raise Presser machine will serve eyoup perfectly for many years if you take plate bulb dis and light case , face a few and Needle moments ofill your dtime ton ke it clean . How often you will Q need to power - line connect plug from clean elec the machine w depen o how often you use it . trical supply . CAUTION : Before cleaning your machine , disconnect power - line plug from electrical supply . REMOVING REPLACING AND Locking Pin CASE BOBBIN Clean between Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts . tension • foot . Raise presser discs the With a Clean soft cloth , clean : wheel • toward Turn hand until . you • Tension discs , take - up lever , and above the needle presser foot is thread guides . plate • Remove as instructed needle on • Presser bar and needle bar . page7 . • Bobbin case . ( If there isea , an excessive • Remove bobbin . amount of lint in the ar remove the bobbin tcaseions . for cleaning . See page 45 bobbin case , turn To remove bobbin case for instruc ) far back as holder as it will to go . Lift out • Machine surface . ( If necessary , dampen bobbin case . the cloth and use a mild soap . ) replace bobbin case , To guide the forked end under the feed and then draw the Remove face plate as instructed on page bobbin position case under plate ther asd 45 and clean area behind it with a lint illustrated . Turn holde all way forwar the brush . bobbin case to lock in position . Afterk Remove needle plate as instructed bobbin locking in position , chec case onhete pageating 7 and , using a brush , clean is jammed , that bobbin case notent . but has tla rot hookate . area under the needle slight movem rotational p and slide pl • Replace needle plate . • Fully close slide plate . Clean NOTE : Top Your machine requires oiling at only Cover one point under normal Plate Face condi Clean Clean tions . REMOVING FACE PLATE • Loosen and remove remove screw and face plate sliding it by downward . REPLACING FACE PLATE • Slide plate tacender up so that rim is en gaged u edge of top cover . • Align ehole screw at lowerine edge of cplatee hol in with screw mach and repla and tighten screw . BrLish not includet into machine accessoiles 44 45
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( ARI HG FOR OUR ‘ I1 ’ MA IN F . checklist porforinanco sections this of ’ the rtviev , encountered This machine designed be is difficulty use sewing to a Should 15 if . performing operation are you watt maximum sewing . bulb light the explain that instruction book corimi . it you help will hints following the , exists problem still the CHANGING . sure make LIGHT THE BULB ; not sew does machine the If Disconnect - line . supply power plug electrical from elec connected to is Machine • trical . supply . on is switch light and Power • . ) 1 page ( See . tightened is designed to is knob wheel Hand • Removing use the Bulb a 15 watt maximum light thumb With and forefinger lower the light Unlocks bulb . sure make , formed not is stitch but moves bar needle If . bracket not Do attempt unscrew to bulb Press up ft into socket and at . same sharp time straight and is Needle • turn bulb over in direction shown to . ) 10 page ( See . using Bulb Pin are you thread forthe correct is size Needle • unlOck pin bulb . threaded correctly is Machine • Replacing Bulb the . thread contains Bobbin • new Press into socket bulb with ) bull pin . machine inserted in correctly are case bobbin and Bobbin • entering slot of , socket and turn it in over . ends thread loose and lint of free is area case Bobbin direction • shown to lock in bulb . position Release , bracket and assembly entire will Changing the Light Bulb snap back into . recess . sure make , move not does fabric If and weight the for is dial pressure adiusted that and down foot is Presser • . fabric your texture of . set correctly selector is length Stitch • REPLACING needle purpose THE general SLIDE PLATE the from removed been has - cover plate Feed • . plate You will not occasion any have to remove Foot the slide , , plate However should if it . feed around the from removed lint is All • accidentally become disengaged from , machine the it . is replaced easily presser Raise • . sure and foot . needle make , needles of breaking avoid To and , machine for correct is Place it • slide plate that Lift in slideway Retaining and with the , burred or bent not is Needle • Spring front into Slide edge close , covering . , using to not but are thread you for the size proper Plate Grooves the retaining spring shown ( as illu in . clamp needle inserted in fully is Needle • ) stration - needle twin doing when plate needle strike not does needle Twin • With a , screwdriver • lift each end the of page . ) 25 . stitching ( See spring into each the of side grooves on . bar presser to fastened securely underside the shank the of is - foot slide Presser . plate • . closed fully is plate slide and seated Draw • the correctly plate is gently toward Needle plate and you • fully engage pulled the . spring being not is needle the behind supported guided or being Fabric • Close Replacing • slide . plate the . fast lide too or Plate hard too 47 46
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PERFORMANCE CHECKLIST ( Continued ) stitching f irregular , is or needle thread breaks , make sure . . . • Machine is correctly threaded . • Thread is even and free from knots . • Needle is straight and sharp , and correct size for thread . • Needle - thread tension is not too tight . • Bobbin case correctly is threaded and properly inserted . • Threads are correctly placed under presser foot when you start to sew . • Bobbin case area is free lint of and loose thread ends . • Bobbin bobbin or case is not damaged . remember Also to . . . • Turn hand wheel toward you position to needle and take - up lever . • Raise needle above fabric before making adjustments to stitch width and needle position . • Start and finish sewing with take - lever up in its highest position . • Adjust stitch length , pressure , and thread tension to suit your fabric . • Test stitch on a fabric sample before starting sewing a job . • Lower presser foot before setting pressure dial . • Tighten hand wheel knob and disengage bobbin winder afterwindinga bobbin . • Remove feed - cover needle plate after button sewing and after darning with embroidery an hoop . • Clean your machine periodically . CAUTION Do not attempt to adjust the motor drive belt . Refer to your nearest Service Centre should any adjustment be required . ZW - AGPOL Oh - 504 / R1 Prinfd Podnd n 48